Peel and coarsely grate 2 pounds russet potatoes and 1 small yellow onion on the large holes of a box grater, dropping the shreds into a colander as you go.

Press the shreds hard against the colander with the back of a spoon, then transfer them to a clean dish towel and twist until the towel stops releasing liquid.

Mix the wrung shreds in a large bowl with 2 large eggs, 1/3 cup all-purpose flour, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper until it binds into a loose, scoopable batter.

Heat 1 cup vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F, testing with a pinch of the mixture that should bubble on contact.

Drop level 1/4-cup mounds of batter into the oil, four at a time, flattening each gently with a spatula so it cooks evenly through the center.

Fry 3 to 4 minutes per side until deep golden and firm enough to flip in one motion without breaking apart.

Move finished latkes to a wire rack over a sheet pan and hold them in a 200°F oven while you fry the rest, up to 30 minutes.

While the last batch fries, thinly slice half a small red onion, drain 1/4 cup capers, and pick 1/4 cup fresh dill fronds from their stems.

Spread a scant teaspoon of creme fraiche onto each warm latke just before serving, so it does not slide off a cold one.

Drape a ribbon of smoked salmon over the creme fraiche on each latke, then scatter capers, red onion and dill on top.

Serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side, since smoked salmon latkes lose their contrast if they sit assembled for more than 15 minutes.