Combine 1/2 cup red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small jar, stirring until the sugar dissolves.

Add 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, pushing the rings down until the vinegar covers them, then let the jar sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes while you make the latkes.

Grate 2 pounds russet potatoes and 1 small onion on the large holes of a box grater, then wring the shreds dry inside a clean towel.

Stir the dry shreds with 2 large eggs, 1/3 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper until the batter holds together.

Heat 1 cup vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat to 350°F.

Fry 1/4-cup portions for 3 to 4 minutes per side, four at a time, until deep golden and crisp.

Drain on a wire rack over a sheet pan and hold in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes.

Stir 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or chives into 1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt with a pinch of salt.

Spoon the herbed yogurt onto each warm latke.

Lift the pickled onion out of its vinegar with a fork, drain briefly, and pile a few rings on top of the yogurt on each latke.