Peel and grate 2 pounds russet potatoes and 1 small onion on the large holes of a box grater, then squeeze the shreds dry inside a clean towel until it stops dripping.

Stir the dried shreds together with 2 large eggs, 1/3 cup flour, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper until the mixture holds its shape when pinched.

Warm 1 cup vegetable oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until it reaches 350°F.

Fry 1/4-cup portions of the mixture for 3 to 4 minutes per side, in batches of four, until the surface is deep golden and firm to the touch.

Transfer to a wire rack over a sheet pan and hold in a 200°F oven for up to 30 minutes while you fry the remaining batter.

Slice 2 medium cooked beets into thin half-moons while the last latkes fry.

Zest 1 lemon and crumble 4 ounces goat cheese into small, uneven pieces with your fingers.

Lay two or three beet slices across each warm latke, letting the color bleed slightly into the potato.

Crumble the goat cheese over the beets, then finish with a pinch of lemon zest and a few small dill sprigs on each.

Serve right away on a platter, since beet juice will tint any latke it touches the longer it sits.