Pour the apple cider into a large pot (4-quart) and add the cinnamon sticks, cloves, star anise and orange slices.

Set the pot over medium heat and bring the cider to a gentle simmer, about 8 minutes, until small bubbles break the surface at the edges.

Reduce the heat to low and let it simmer uncovered for 15 minutes, until the kitchen smells strongly of cinnamon and the cider turns a deeper amber.

Stir in the nutmeg and maple syrup if using, tasting and adjusting sweetness.

Strain out the whole spices and orange slices with a fine-mesh sieve, or leave them in the pot for guests to self-serve from a ladle.

Ladle into heatproof mugs, filling each about three-quarters full.

Garnish each mug with a fresh cinnamon stick and a thin orange wheel set against the rim.

Serve warm, within 30 minutes of straining, so it is still steaming.