Make the latke base: grate potatoes and onion, wring dry in a kitchen towel, then mix with eggs, matzo meal and salt.

Heat 1/4 inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high until a shred sizzles on contact, then fry tablespoon-sized portions 3 to 4 minutes per side until deep golden and crisp at the edges.

Drain on a wire rack and salt immediately; these should be no wider than 2 inches so each one is a single bite.

Let the latkes cool for 5 minutes on the rack, until warm rather than hot to the touch.

Top each latke with a scant teaspoon of crème fraîche.

Fold a small ribbon of smoked salmon onto the crème fraîche so it sits in loose waves, not flat.

Finish with a pinch of chopped dill, a few capers and a light grating of lemon zest.

Arrange on a platter and serve within the hour, while the latkes still hold their crunch against the cold salmon.