Set two coupe glasses in the freezer for at least 10 minutes, until they feel cold to the touch.

Fill a clear glass cocktail shaker about halfway with ice, then pour in 3 ounces gin, 1 ounce fresh lemon juice and 1 ounce simple syrup.

Seal the shaker tight and shake hard for 15 seconds, until the outside turns frost cold in your hand.

Strain the shaken mixture evenly between the two chilled coupes, filling each glass about halfway.

Drop a brandied cherry into each glass now if you are making the cherry version, skip this step for the classic pour.

Top each coupe slowly with chilled sparkling wine, about 2 ounces per glass, pouring down the inside edge so the foam does not climb over the rim.

Twist a strip of lemon peel over each glass to release its oil, run it around the rim, then drop it in.

Serve the French 75 right away, while the bubbles are still rising through the glass.